 |
 HOME
Products/Engines
Submit
Prod/Eng Quote
Service/Estimates
Submit
Serv/Est Quote
Car
Care One Credit App
Care
Care One Benefits
Consumer
Info
Auto
News
Save
Fuel Kits
Beat
High Fuel Prices
Water4Gas
Products
Hydrogen
Dry Cell Kits
Hydrogen
Dry Cell Manual
Proof
Hydrogen Works
Tax
Incentive For Hydrogen
Hydrogen
Testimonials
Hydrogen
Facts
Agreement
Form
Diagnosis
form
Electrolyte
Mix
Disclaimer
Site
Map
Beat
The High Cost of Fuel With Hydrogen Technology ...
Read more
Consumer
Information You
Need to Read ...
Read more
See
Our Discount Coupon ...
Read more
Submit
a Products/Engines
Price Quote ...
Read more
Submit
a Service/Estimate
Price Quote ...
Read more
Latest Automotive News ...
Read more
We
Provide ...
Engines Repaired, Remanufactured, Reconditioned, Used Low Mileage, Import, Japanese, Foreign,
Domestic, Engines, Transmissions, Transaxles, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Lexus,
Infinity, KIA, Saturn, Dodge, Chevy, Chevrolet, Buick, Oldsmobile, Honda,
Mercury, Lincoln, Ford, Hyundai, Toyota, Mazda, Acura, Pontiac, GMC, Cadillac,
Audi, VW Engines
Contact
Information:
Telephone: 504-469-9986
Fax: 504-467-9356
Hours: 8 - 5 Mon.-Fri.
Towing Available . 24 Hour Answer Machine Message .
Early Bird Key Drop in Front Door
E-Mail:
(NOT for estimate quote use. See
appropriate links atop of page):
Click
Postal
Address:
2642 Delaware Ave., Kenner, La. 70062
Click For Map Directions
Metairie Business List
|
 |
WELCOME TO OUR WEBSITE |
 |
|
Hydrogen Dry Fuel Cell Installation...
Hydrogen Dry Cell HHO
Generator Kits & Accessories
Hydrogen Facts
Testimonials From Real People
It's GUARANTEED
To Reduce Your Fuel Consumption
Water4Gas Products &
Sales
Burn Water For Fuel
(Hydrogen) And Get A Tax Refund From The IRS
|
MANUAL FOR DRY FUEL CELLS
Click to Download Manual
in WORD.DOC
Click to Download Manual
in PDF
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Incorrectly installing or incorrectly using our Hydrogen Dry Cell may
result in serious damage to your automobile or bodily injury. Read and
follow the instructions and safety precautions given here and in
relevant places throughout this manual to avoid these hazards. If you do
not understand these instructions or do not like working on vehicles,
have your mechanic do the installation. It should take 30 to 45 minutes
to install this unit. Be sure to work outside, no smoking; make sure the
engine is not hot.
Be sure to wear goggles and gloves and only use professional tools; use
common sense and general safety procedures used for automotive
installations and maintenance. If you're not sure, ASK! Yes, HHO is
combustible – AFTER IT ENTERS THE ENGINE – that's the whole point. Your
Hydro Fuel Dry Cell system does not store hydrogen when installed
properly, so there is no fire hazard due to hydrogen storage. So, don't
let people who have no understanding of the system intimidate you or
tell you about non-existent hazards. Hydrogen dry cell technology cools down
the engine and adds safety to any car.
The article “Shade Tree Safety” By Mike Bumbeck of autoMedia.com is a
recommended reading that will give more education for the do it yourself
mechanic.
WORD OF CAUTION: Avoid unnecessary fears and that includes listening to
self-appointed “experts”. Because the safety notes in this manual are
not intended to intimidate or stop you, only to add to your safety.
LET'S GET FAMILIAR WITH YOUR NEW DRY FUEL CELL
INSTALLATION:
The Dry Fuel Cell is the heart of the system that generates the HHO gas
and cools down the engine. You will need to find a place in the engine
compartment to mount your new Dry Fuel Cell. It should be mounted and
secured in such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around when
the vehicle hits bumps etc. Your Dry Fuel Cell comes with mounting holes
which make your cell easy to install. Be sure to install your new Dry
Fuel Cell so that it can easily be accessed and can be conveniently
cleaned and serviced or inspected from time to time. Your new Dry Fuel
Cell comes with a Reservoir/Bubbler that looks similar to the one above.
Make sure that your Reservoir/Bubbler is installed the same as you see
it above. As you can see, the Reservoir/Bubbler needs to be higher than
your Dry Fuel Cell. This system works off of gravity and will not work
properly if it's not installed right. There are no pumps involved with
the circulation. The other important device that needs to be installed
with the dry cell is the vaporizer condenser. Some call this a scrubber.
In any case, this keeps the electrolyte from entering into the engine
which could cause damage by cylinder washout or trigger the check engine
light. It also keeps buildup from occurring in the output line. If any
electrolyte enters the vaporizer, it will eventually be sucked back into
the bubbler tank after the engine is turned off. If you install the
hydrogen generator without this, you are taking a chance of the engine
sucking electrolyte into the intake manifold. This is particularly
damaging to diesel engines because it could easily cause engine lockup.
If you're not sure of something, pick up the phone and give us a call.
IMPORTANT:
Try to Install your new Dry Fuel Cell as far away from the heat of your
engine. Locate the coolest available place in the engine area. We cannot
give you an exact number here for what is “too hot”, because there is a
combination of heating factors here: weather, engine, and the
electrolysis process itself. There is a situation called Thermal
Runaway, where an increase in temperature changes the conditions (in
this case the rise in electrical current) that causes a further increase
in temperature that could lead to a destructive result. You can prevent
this from happening by following instructions.
IMPORTANT:
Vehicles with EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) should also be connected
at or near the intake manifold. Use your vehicles Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) valve which is a one way valve that ensures continual
refreshment of the air inside a gasoline internal combustion engine's
crankcase. Now let's move on to connections and supply lines.
Your new Dry Fuel Cell device is operated by vacuum pressure from your
vehicle’s engine, plus a 12 Volt supply from your vehicle’s electrical
system. The device is designed to operate on 12 Volts. Refer to the
wiring diagram below. If you’re not sure consult your auto mechanic
(electric), or contacting us for help.
Connecting The Power Source
Useful resource: www.AHDOL.com - the
Automotive Hobbyists Digital Online Library (AHDOL) provides FACTORY
WIRING DIAGRAMS upon request, for vehicles sold in North America between
1984 and 2007. Cost of complete vehicle diagrams per vehicle is $11.99
and is guaranteed to be delivered, via email, within 24 hours.
1. Identify a point in your vehicle’s electrical system which has a 12
Volts (positive) present ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON (Position 2 of the
Ignition Switch), such as the starter solenoid or a similar circuit. Be
sure to install your Amp Meter inside your car so you can monitor it at
all times.
2. Turn the switch off and take out the key. Connect the positive 12
Volts (point identified above) to the red terminal of the device, using
the red wire supplied.
3. Connect the black terminal of the device to a good ground source near
the Dry Cell using the black wire provided. This can be done by
connecting to the negative battery terminal or by a bolt or screw
connected to the frame or body of your vehicle (See diagram below).
4. To protect the wiring from long term damage, you can now put the
newly installed wires into what's called “split flex tubing”, see photo.
You can find it in all major hardware stores such as Ace, Home depot.
Don't buy it online ($5 +S&H) because in the shop it's only 99 cents for
10 ft.
How To Run Your HHO Gas Into Your Vehicle.
Now it's time to connect the HHO gas line to your vehicle so you can
experience a smother ride, cleaner burn, and go much further on a tank
of gas. (Follow the diagram below).
How To Use Your Vacuum
VACUUM
Dry cell systems should be connected to the closest area to the throttle
throat (throttle body), not directly to intake manifold vacuum. The idea
is to suck the HHO gas into a place such as the carburetor throat or
fuel injection throttle body, where it can be automatically mixed with
the existing fuel/air mixture. Best connection spot on carburetors and
injection systems is at the closest location to the throttle body
throat. Connect the output hose on the air filter container right above
the carburetor throat and on fuel injection system, right above the
throttle body throat by means of a fitting. On rubber duct type hoses,
you can use a soldier gun and melt a hole in the rubber duct closest to
the throttle body and glue and screw the fitting into the hole with Goop
glue. On metal or hard plastic ducts, remove and drill hole, thread it,
install fitting, and then clean the melt shavings out of the duct before
installing it. (See diagram above)
WARNING: DO NOT SHORTEN THE OUTPUT VACUUM LINE between the engine intake
and the Dry Cell. Keep the line (hose) at least 4 ft long. This length
must be kept to enhance safety and prevent damage to the device.
FINAL SETUP
Filling the Reservoir/Bubbler with DISTILLED WATER & THE ELECTROLYTE:
ELECTROLYTE
(IMPORTANT NOTE) Our web site is available to anyone on the Internet.
There is some information that is only for those who paid for the
product. For example, we have our own formula for the electrolyte we use
in our dry cells. This formula runs cleaner and more efficient then most
things on the market today. This is according to our experience not
theory. Just give us a call 1 504 469 9986 or send us an
e-mail mailto:labellas@cox.net with your proof of
purchase and we will give you the password to this link, click:
www.labellasautorepair.com/forms/electrolyte_mix.pdf
that contains the electrolyte mix and information.
Try to use at least a 1 quart Reservoir/Bubbler. Be sure to make your mix with
that in mind. Our Dry Fuel Cell was made to run cooler, therefore you
might need more or less electrolyte to bring your cell up to the
operating standard we have set for this model. 10-12 amps maximum.
Once you have your mixture ready, pour it into the top of the
Reservoir/Bubbler up to the water level line. (see sample diagram below)
This is just a sample of a small 1 quart Reservoir/Bubbler. Be sure to
leave about 1/4 of the tank empty. What you decide to use is your
decision. While you are filling the unit, you should be able to see
water running down to your Dry Fuel Cell. If you don't see any water
going down the tube, this could mean you don't have the
Reservoir/Bubbler high enough above your Dry Cell. Always try to install
your Dry Cell at the lowest level on your vehicle.
TEST RUN:
1. Start by checking all your connections. Make sure your amp meter and
inline fuse have been installed.
2. Now start your vehicle. While it's running, watch for bubbling action
inside of your Reservoir/Bubbler. You should be able to see the gas
entering the Reservoir/Bubbler.
3. Now it's time to check how many amps your dry cell is pulling. This
cell was made to run at 10-12 amps without overheating at all. It will
produce over 1 liter of HHO gas per minute if you have everything hooked
up according to the instructions (that's all the hydrogen your vehicle
will need to see an improvement).
4. If you have done everything right, within a short time, you will
notice that the engine starts to sound dramatically different. It will
sound smoother and quieter. Your RPM's may be unstable for a couple of
minutes. This is normal. The HHO is starting to change the combustion
cycle and cancels the pinging and the engine is now adjusting to the
changes. Your RPM's will normalize in a couple of minutes.
Congratulations! Your new Dry Fuel Cell is now producing Hydrogen Gas!
This is a professional cell and not made out of kitchen utensils or
outlet covers. This is for the expert experimenter. No novice please.
What you do with this is up to you. However...Keep in mind if you
install this in a vehicle you will still need something to fool the
computer into leaning out the fuel mixture.
THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING
YOU MUST FOOL THE COMPUTER
Why do I have to fool the computer? Most modern-day fuel injected
vehicles use a computer and oxygen sensing devices to monitor and
maintain the correct oxygen/fuel ratio. One of the key sensing devices
is the oxygen sensor or called exhaust sensor. Fuel injected vehicles
have one or more oxygen sensors installed in them. The computer
extrapolates what the air/fuel ratio is, based on the amount of oxygen
in the exhaust, as reported by the oxygen sensor.
When a fuel saving device is installed, such as an oxy hydrogen
generator, the petroleum based fuel is burned more completely. One of
the results of this is that there is more oxygen (and less unburned
hydrocarbons) in the exhaust stream. This is a good thing, and is in
fact, what we are trying to achieve. However, the computer will perceive
this condition as a “too lean” air/fuel mix. In other words, what is now
a desirable condition in the exhaust, will be interpreted as “not enough
fuel”, and the computer will direct the fuel injectors to increase the
amount of fuel being pumped into the engine. The result is that the
oxygen sensor and computer prevents efficient combustion from occurring!
In other words, it cancels out most of the improvement we have just
made.
The Solution
The oxygen sensor “tells” the computer what the oxygen content is by
providing a voltage on it’s signal wire between 0 and 1 volt. 450
millivolts (.45 volts) means that the fuel/air mixture is correct.
Higher values means the mix is rich (has too much gas), and lower
voltages means the mix is lean. By adding voltage to the sensor’s
output, we can compensate for the additional oxygen in the exhaust and
lean out the vehicle to get maximum MPG.
You must use device(s) that enhances the signal to the (ECU), such as an
EFIE (electronic fuel injector enhancer) which goes on the oxygen
sensor(s) BEFORE the catalytic converter(s).
EFIE INSTRUCTIONS
|
Click:
www.labellasautorepair.com/manuals/efie_adjust.pdf |
DIAGRAM OF TYPICAL 02 SENSOR LOCATION
|
 |
Most cars have oxygen sensors both before and after the
catalytic converter. The ones downstream from the converter do
not need to be treated. Their data is used to determine when the
converter has gone bad, but are not used in the air/fuel ratio
calculations. These devices are only needed for all upstream
oxygen sensors. |
DIAGRAM OF A TYPICAL EFIE DEVICE
|
 |
|
|
|
However, oxygen sensor
isolators can sometimes work instead of an EFIE.
OYXGEN SENSOR ISOLATOR INSTRUCTIONS
If you expect
the best results, besides addressing the O2 sensors, you need to address
other computer components as well. If the vehicle has a MAP (manifold
absolute pressure) sensor, you need to install a MAP/MAF enhancer on it
(see illustration below). If the vehicle has no MAP sensor but has a MAF
(mass airflow) sensor, a MAP/MAF enhancer needs to be installed on it
(see illustration below). In some cases the vehicle may have both, in
which case you only address the MAP sensor.
MAP/MAF ENHANCER INSTRUCTIONS
Most all fuel injected
engine have a coolant temperature sensor CTS (see illustration &
instructions below) and some have a separate intake air temperature IAT
sensor (see instructions below). These sensors can be leaned out by
upping the temperature that the computer sees (not your dash gauge) by installing a resistor
in parallel to the sensor wires. Our testing has found that installing a
single pull single throw on/off switch eliminates cold start
problems that the installation of the resistor produces. Make no mistake
about it, if all possible computer components are
not addressed properly for leaning out (fooling the ECM computer) the
computer will eventually override single fixes and undo them after
several weeks of driving, rendering the fuel mileage increase to null.
Detailed instructions come with all purchased computer enhancers (and
OUR enhancers come with detailed instructions that can be downloaded
from this page) and
these adjustments involve trial and error fine tuning until you get it just right or the
check engine light might come on.
 |
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR IAT
|
The IAT is less sensitive to cold start issues. You can add more
temp to this signal than you can to the CTS. Just keep in mind
that you are not only lowering your lean-out limits, you are
also retarding your ignition timing. If you put a timing light
on the engine as you adjust IAT values, you won't see the timing
change. The timing changes under load. Hotter air is more prone
to detonation. This is why the ECU retards the timing.
If you are tuning on the hottest day of the year, you may find
out just how high of a signal you can generate before setting
codes. Typically it is in the 240° F range. If you are tuning in
the middle of February, then you can offset the signal from your
base cold reading and things will be fine for now. Come June or
August, this setting may be high enough to trip codes. Allow for
this when tuning. |
KEEPING THE HHO GENERATOR COOLER & MORE
EFFICIENT
Click:
www.labellasautoreapir.com/manuals/pwm_instructions.pdf |
 |
|
While the hydrogen generator will produce sufficient hydrogen
output, pending the correct electrolyte mix, and run within heat
tolerances, adding a PWM (pulse width modulator) will definitely
improve the temperature control and HHO production more
efficiently. Why? Because you can control the amperage draw
below the limit it is capable of drawing. For example, if the unit
is designed to run between 12-18 amps and the unit draws more
than that, adding a PWM you can tune it down and can keep the
amp draw within the specs, keeping a thermo runaway in check. It
also changes the voltage wave length which is conducive to
better HHO production. |
NO WARRANTY is expressed or implied concerning the use of these devices
for any particular application. Use of these devices is at your own
risk. These devices are not intended for use in violation of State or
Federal law or regulations. Compliance with any State or Federal laws or
regulations is the responsibility of the buyer.
We are not responsible for how you use this device. Please read
disclaimer
CLICK:
www.labellasautoreapair.com/disclaimer.htm
BUT WON'T IT VOID MY CAR WARRANTY?
We get this question all the time. The answer is simple:
Your car or truck is being damaged right now by UNBURNED FUEL! Our
technology will help not only eliminate carbon deposits caused by
unburned gasoline - but will ACTIVELY clean out your engine every time
you drive. Over the first few weeks you will notice that the engine
becomes smoother and smoother. Then it will level off at a new level -
at which the engine continues to STEAM CLEAN itself.
Your new Dry Fuel Cell makes the engine quiet, and calm. The engine
stops knocking or "pinging". The water changes the combustion cycle into
a more even or "round" cycle. This happens IMMEDIATELY upon
installation, and from that moment on, your engine works in a new way.
The effect is not only less noise, it also has less vibration, resulting
in reduced strain on the transmission (thus smoother gear shifts),
cleaner pistons and valves, and generally better engine operation.
Water cools down the engine. For years, heavy trucks have been using
water injection systems that cost up to $15,000 to cool their engines.
Truck owners are very sensitive to maintenance expenses and they know
from years of experience that water reduces their breakdowns and overall
operating costs.
Our Dry Fuel Cell system will widen the torque range and make vehicles
accelerate faster. After acceleration, you don't have to press the gas
pedal as much to keep going. Trucks pull better uphill with HHO Gas.
Would you say that less strain on that Detroit diesel engine must result
in less wear and tear over the life of the engine?
EASY UNDO: Our technology does not change your vehicle's engine or
computer, so if you ever decide that you don't want this system, you can
unhook it in less than a minute and your engine is just as it was - only
cleaner!
CLEANING THE DRY FUEL CELL
You will need to do some maintenance on your Dry Fuel Cell from time to
time in order to help make it last. Keeping your dry fuel cell clean is
an important factor and it's a very easy process. First you take loose
the outlet side of the cell and let it empty into a pan or bucket. Take
the cap off your reservoir/ bubbler and let the water drain out. Once
the water is drained out you will want to flush the unit.
(Important Note) Be sure that you drain the unit before flushing.
Depending on what type of electrolyte your using, adding the flush
mixture could cause a chemical reaction. Once the water has all drained
out of the unit, mix 1/4 cup of bleach to one gallon of water. Then pour
the mixture into the reservoir.
Let this flush through the system. This may take some time as your cell
is gravity feed. Once all the mixture stops running out of the outlet
tube, you only have one step left. Run another gallon of clean water
through the system and you're good to go. Reattach the hose and fill the
unit with the electrolyte mixture you're using and be sure to use
distilled water.
We invite you to test this technology for yourself just like we've done,
and just like 1000's of vehicle owners and fleet managers from around
the world have done. Now go show others how to save money on their fuel
bills.
Thanks again for purchasing one of the best Dry Fuel Cells on the
Market.
READ DISCLAIMER,
CLICK:
www.labellasautoreapair.com/disclaimer.htm
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
